Malong a Landap (Tubular garment)
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Muslim Mindanao's prince's malong/landap or robe.
London Co-curation workshop (November 12, 2023)
Notes:
Some were not sure it was pure silk but many agreed that yellow was a special colour, indicates "royalty". Images are based on flora - in an "Okir" design (only in the Minadanao area in the Philippines). Represents waves, flowers and leaves, as Islam forbids the depiction of persons. But some animals and lizards are okay. However, lizards and animals are not seen as dieties - so it is not usually included in the textiles.
One can "wear" the Malong or 'walk " the Malong sometimes called "kini-kini"
This malong can be used for both men and women,
For men, it is called "sanaya" and can be used as blankets for bedtime or as prayer mats.
For women, it is called"gita" and is used for general purposes.
Dekat - can be adjusted easily for use.
Many believed that this malong was incredibly rare.
In older times, ordinary peoele can't wear yellow, but the current generations can now wear yellow.
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A symbol of wealth and social class in the Maranao community and a symbol of perfection due to it being one of the finest woven products in the world. Each Landap is a symbol of royalty and value in Maranao society, in the past only Datu’s and Ea-e’s (Kings and Queens) their families and selected members of society could afford to wear them. It determines their position in society and depending on what colour they wear, it also showcases their title as well. For example, Green or “Gadong” is for juries and priests. Red or “Mariga” is worn by warriors and combatants. Magenta/Violet or “Rambayong” are reserved for Princesses, young ladies and Queens. And finally, Yellow is only worn by Sultans as it is a symbol of royalty. Any Maranao product with blend of colour yellow is considered to be royal or high class.
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It is made out of a very thin silk called “Sutra”. The most commonly found colour scheme is the alternating colours of yellow and magenta, however solid colours of magenta, green, and white are known.
Tubes made of broad bands of silk that are joined together with tapestry bands called Langkit. It runs vertically and horizontally across which has been added for patterning. The wide vertical tapestry weave Langkit band is called a Lakban. The narrower band going down the middle of the Malong is called a Tobrian. The geometric designs of Langkit are similar to Okir, a Maranao woodcraving design. The “Kalwit”, a small bamboo stick is used to shape the patterns creating a mirror effect above and undear the cloth.
There are three parts in Malong a Landap. First being the Lakban which is the wide vertical tapestry weave sewed on the sides of the garment. There is also the Langkit which are tapestry bands that run vertically and horizontally across the Landap for patterning. Thirdly, the Tobrian, which is the narrower band that runs down the middle of the Malong.
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