Textile fragment, part of a garment, lampas, silks and gilt paper wrapped thread

Text

Judging from its shape, this fragment may have been taken from a Roman Catholic priest's chasuble. The crimson silk ground indicates that the vestment would probably have been worn on the feast day of a martyr. The repeat pattern of double-headed eagles over a stylised vase may have been intended to be an emblem adopted by the Order of St Augustine under Hapsburg patronage. The original emblem is the Royal Hapsburg eagles standing over a Cardinal's hat (probably symbolising the authority of the Crown and the Church), which rests over the Augustinian crest of a heart pierced with arrows. This vestment was probably woven in the East, in Macau, for Augustinian missionaries stationed in the Philippines. The finished textiles were probably brought via Chinese junks sailing to the Philippines. Textile fragment of woven silk in blue, yellow and White on a red satin ground. Chinese weaving from a Spanish design. The design consists of a vertical band of scrolling floral and foliated stems. Two birds can be seen perched at the top of the textile fragment as well as at the bottom. A double-headed eagle is holding two arrows in its claws that penetrate the centre of a heart shaped vase below. Strips of scrolling floral and leafy stems complete the band at each side. The textile is a portion of a garment. \n Part of a whole in V and A collection

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