Jacket for Women (Benad)

The weaving technique for this jacket requires certain expertise: it features leno fabric, creating a waffled visual effect. The bottom selvage of the front and back parts is decorated with a weft-float pattern in blue and red. The fringes have red and blue edging. The sleeves are inserted in a straight manner; in the axillary region is no seam, probably serving to enhance ventilation. A comparable piece from the Dresden Schadenberg collection (No. 6921 Sch; Meyer and Schadenberg 1890: 9) exhibits a small application with a tassel at the back; apparently this feature got lost in the jacket presented here. (Ursula Brandl-Straka 2009: 84)

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Map Vienna Museum of Ethnology

Identifier

MVW 30911

Origin

Northern Luzon, Lepanto, rancheria Otucan, Kankanay

Materials

Cotton

Physical Dimensions

39 x 100 cm

Provenance

Schadenberg; before 1888 Alexander Schadenberg (1851-1896) was a chemist and ethnographer, and a natural history enthusiast. Born in Breslau, Germany, he studied chemistry and botany. After receiving his Ph.D., he worked as the assistant director of the Potassic Salt Works in Stassfurt. In 1876, he went to worked as a chemist for the drug company Pablo Sartorius in Manila and in 1879, illness forced him to move back to Breslau. From 1881 to 1883, Schadenberg and his friend Otto Koch visited southern Mindanao to carry out ethnographic and linguistic studies, basing themselves in the Bagobo village of Sibulan. There, they also made ethnographic and natural history collections. Upon their return to Germany Schadenberg spent several years working on his collections, publishing, lecturing and corresponding with museums and anthropological societies throughout Europe. Schadenberg later returned to the Philippines and became a partner of Pablo Sartorius. He settled with his family in Vigan in 1885 and continued his excursions among the native people of the islands. After Schadenberg's death in 1896, his collections passed to several museums in Dresden, Vienna, Berlin, and Leiden.

Acquisition Date

Schadenberg; before 1888

Short description

According to Schadenberg, this "Jacket for female Igorroten" (1) originates from the rancheria Otucan, Lepanto. Place and similar pieces are linked to the Kankanay by Kron-Steinhardt (1991: 42).

(1)German original: "Igorrotinnen Jacke" (Schadenberg, register, collector file, MVW archives).

Display status

Not on display

References

The Philippines: Museum of Ethnology, Vienna : Early Collections. Vienna: Museum für Volkerkünde, 2009. Print.

Kron-Steinhardt ,Christiane. 1991 Textilien und Weberei der Bergbewohner Luzons Indizien einer handelsintensiven, jungen Vergangenheit · Volume 1.

Official Website

https://www.weltmuseumwien.at/

Collection

Vienna Museum of Ethnology

Source

Translated from German by Google Translate Record accessed March 2021

Cite this Page

“Jacket for Women (Benad),” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed April 20, 2024, https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/6074.

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