Trousers

The trousers consist of silk damask in dark purple with light blue embroidery and white lace trimming at the bottom openings. Juynboll describes the same kind of trousers (1928: 93, 95), but originating from the Tagalog. One of the mentioned pieces (No. 566/16) is part of a Tagalog costume from between 1780 and 1820. Hence, the trousers from the Viennese collection could indeed be "relatively old," having reached Lamao via trade.

Together wth other pieces, Schadenberg acquired these"Tinguian trousers made of silk with opulent embroidery .. "from the rancheria Lamao: "[ ... ] These old pieces were part of the heirloom and I purchased them with great effort and patience only [ ... ] [They] are rare pieces and one can easily detect in them Chinese influence." (1)

(1)German original: "Tinguianenhose aus Seide mit reichen Stickereien [ ... ]Sind alee Erbstucke und wurden von mir mit sehr groBer Muhe und Geduldeingekauft [ ... ] sind seltene Stucke, es ist an ihnen gut chinesischer Einflub zu erkennen."(Schadenberg, collector file, MVW archives).

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Map Vienna Museum of Ethnology

Identifier

MVW42079

Origin

Northern Luzon, Abra, rancheria Lamao;Tinguian (ltneg)

Materials

Silk, cotton

Physical Dimensions

91 x 87 cm

Provenance

Schadenberg; before 1891 Alexander Schadenberg (1851-1896) was a chemist and ethnographer, and a natural history enthusiast. Born in Breslau, Germany, he studied chemistry and botany. After receiving his Ph.D., he worked as the assistant director of the Potassic Salt Works in Stassfurt. In 1876, he went to worked as a chemist for the drug company Pablo Sartorius in Manila and in 1879, illness forced him to move back to Breslau. From 1881 to 1883, Schadenberg and his friend Otto Koch visited southern Mindanao to carry out ethnographic and linguistic studies, basing themselves in the Bagobo village of Sibulan. There, they also made ethnographic and natural history collections. Upon their return to Germany Schadenberg spent several years working on his collections, publishing, lecturing and corresponding with museums and anthropological societies throughout Europe. Schadenberg later returned to the Philippines and became a partner of Pablo Sartorius. He settled with his family in Vigan in 1885 and continued his excursions among the native people of the islands. After Schadenberg's death in 1896, his collections passed to several museums in Dresden, Vienna, Berlin, and Leiden.

Acquisition Date

before 1891

Short description

According to Montinola, the upper class of the non-Christianized ethnic groups used to adopt European customs. Local officials were also modelling their costumes following European fashion. Montinola gives as example a watercolor of the painter Damian Domingo, done around 1830, which is showing the "[p]ortrait of a native Gobernadorcillo and a Municipal Captain in their formal costume and ordinary attire[ ... ]" (1991: 72, pl. 39). The trousers worn by the Gobernadorcillo are similar to the silk trousers in the Viennese collection.

Related Object

For similar silk trousers see a digital exhibit on these
http://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/tours/show/7

Display status

Not on display

References

The Philippines: Museum of Ethnology, Vienna : Early Collections. Vienna: Museum für Volkerkünde, 2009. Print.

Montinola, Lourdes R. 1991. Piña. Published by Amon Foundation.

Official Website

https://www.weltmuseumwien.at/

Collection

Vienna Museum of Ethnology

Source

Translated from German by Google Translate Record accessed March 2021

Cite this Page

“Trousers,” Mapping Philippine Material Culture, accessed April 16, 2024, https://philippinestudies.uk/mapping/items/show/6072.

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